存在於海安路的平行時空

海安路的昔與今

海安路從前以藍晒圖園區為名,但藍晒圖如今已遷移到西門路上,海安路則新增了許多裝置藝術,是為「海安路藝術街」。或許是鄰近國華街,或許是新的裝置藝術引起了注意,海安路那光影迷濛的夜景在網路上有著不小的討論度。

(作品名稱:「亮亮雲&亮亮海安」\作者:林建榮\攝影:劉育瑄)

 

自己開車V.S.大眾運輸

剛走至海安路上,便瞧見馬路正中央那寬敞的人行步道及巨大的通風塔。步道兩邊的車道便相對顯得狹窄,轎車與摩托車將海安路擠得水洩不通,像兩條螢紅色的河道。

由於我當天是搭乘7號公車至「中正西門路口」站後再走路前往,沒有塞車或找車位的困擾。但若遊客們在假日及下班時段騎車或開車前往海安路,這擁擠的道路與寥寥無幾的車位,大概會使他們的心情變得十分不美麗。倒不如無車一身輕,台南發達的公車系統是你的好選擇。

 

 

晝與夜的風景差異

(作品名稱:「厚禮」\作者:林美吟\攝影:劉育瑄)

 

海安路安置藝術的主要場所就是那長長的人行步道,全長約500公尺的人行步道上每隔一段距離就會設置一組對稱的通風塔,每組通風塔上皆設置著不同主題的裝置藝術,明亮的白燈泡與昏黃的街燈融合,光影的界線變模糊了起來,意外的有一種朦朧的浪漫。

但某些未設置照明燈的裝置藝術還是適合白天造訪,例如「厚禮」與「海安五条」,夜晚昏暗的燈光無法照映出他們的全貌。所以,若你的重點是拍攝裝置藝術,建議在有白天藍雲、艷陽高照的晴天時造訪此地;若你的重點是來親自感受那迷濛的氛圍,或者你喜愛涼爽的溫度,那麼太陽下山、街燈亮起後的時段最適合不過了。

 

 

日式風格與摩登情懷並存的店家裝潢

當我漫步在人行步道上、沿路對著裝置藝術拍照時,突然有種奇妙的感覺油然而生。若你面對著北方走,右手邊便是一排仿造日式風格的房屋,木質的梁柱、清酒的香氣、烤串店裡的吆喝聲……種種要素還原了另一個年代的韻味,也成了海安路上最令人津津樂道的特點。

然而步道的左手邊,居然是一家家燈光曖昧的現代酒吧。閃爍的霓虹燈、煙霧環繞的酒杯,方才似乎有人走進了酒吧深處,但又似乎沒有,一切的背影皆埋沒在震耳欲聾的音樂聲中。

 

(現代酒吧「BarK」\攝影:劉育瑄)

 

 

夜晚的海安路是酒鬼的樂園

 

(日本清酒\攝影:劉育瑄)

就像上段所描述的,一整條海安路逛下來,可以發現不少家酒吧。人行道的東邊,我邊酌飲著燙口的清酒,邊看著對街穿著清涼的吧檯小姐忙進忙出,思索著等會兒是否也該去尋口冰甜。人行道的西邊,我吸吮著插在高筒杯裡的吸管,感受從50公尺外飄來的歌聲與烤串香氣,冰冷的調酒使尚未饜足的胃部發出些許抗議,此時我才開始懷念清酒那暖心的甜香。

「獨自酌飲」在外人聽起來似乎有些寂寞,但我倒是很享受一個人的時光。若你覺得自行前往酒吧是件有些尷尬的事,那麼你可能需要做一些前置作業。

  • 「獨自酌飲」的前置作業

第一:

鎖定一家你中意的酒吧,根據它的外圍裝潢或展示菜單來判斷這裡可能會有的酒類,你也可以直接上網搜尋店名,網路會告訴你這家酒吧最著名的事物。

第二:

你必須在踏入酒吧前,在腦袋裡列好一張願望清單,清單上列著你想在這家酒吧喝到的幾種酒類。這樣一來,只要服務員一幫你帶好位、為你送上菜單時,你就可快速的瀏覽酒類價錢,立刻決定好今晚要喝的酒類。事先做好功課,省下不少思考時間,也不用麻煩服務員為你一一解釋。

第三:

最後一點,也是最重要的一點——專心的與酒約會。現在酒送上來了,你的主要任務是好好品嘗它,在喝完這杯酒之前,你可以欣賞酒吧的裝潢、盯著牆上的電視看、偷聽調酒師與服務員的對話……諸如此類,放鬆心情,珍惜與這杯酒共度的時光。

 

 

從荒廢中重生的海安路

看到如今人聲鼎沸的海安路,許多人一定無法想像,10年前的海安路是一片荒蕪;在知道這個訊息之後,大家應該更難想像,20年前的海安路堪稱台南的迪化街。為何那繁榮的街景,會在20年前的某一天如幻影般消逝?

1992年,當時的海安路每天都熱鬧如臘月時的年貨大街,台南人一想到要買乾貨、民生用品,他們第一個想到的購物地點絕對是海安路。蒸蒸日上的聚集經濟,隨著第一台挖土機的進駐,瞬間像是浮出水面的泡沫,大幅消退。

台南市長為了建造「海安路地下街」,展開拓寬道路計畫。沿路的商家為了配合政府政策,紛紛收拾店面,另尋營業場所,運氣不好的人,生意隨著海安路凋零,只好將生意收了,為了尋找新生計到處奔波。

錯誤的政策、草率的土地調查、層出不窮的工程弊案……接連的打擊使海安路陷入前所未有的蕭條。諷刺的是,費時耗材所建出的地下街道,由於海安路經濟沒落,乏人問津,理想中的美食街,改建成了地下停車場。

後來在一群有志之士的集資下,「藝術造街」的運動在海安路展開,經歷當地居民的反對、大眾輿論的質疑,海安路的街道藝術終於設置完成,著名的「藍晒圖園區」也在網路上引起話題。雖然無法再現20年前的巔峰光景,但曾經空如鬼城的海安路,終於開始一點一點的復甦。

放眼望去,如今車水馬龍的海安路,仍舊可以從老房子與斷垣殘壁間看出它曾受過的巨大傷害。錢潮與遊客不斷地在流動,悲痛的傷疤卻永遠地靜佇在街道的兩旁。站在馬路上,遊客們被震耳欲聾的人聲、車聲、音樂聲所包圍,但鮮少人會注意到,那隨著地下停車場一同被封印的哭聲、怒吼聲與嘆息聲。

海安路彷彿兩個平行時空的交會點:”現今”與”20年前的全盛時期”,現今的海安路以20年前的繁榮為目標在邁進,但海安路的老居民們都知道,這兩個時代難以有交疊的一天。或許在另一個平行時空,海安路未曾發展地下街工程,街景的熱鬧程度幾十年來如一日,但有條巨大的鴻溝將我們與這樣的時空遠遠地阻隔了開來。而那條鴻溝,即是浩大的道路工程在海安路留下的、無法痊癒的傷口。

(作品名稱:「記憶的重量 漂浮之塔」\作者:曾瑋\攝影:劉育瑄)

 

搭7號公車到海安路

下車站:中正西門路口站

下車後的步行時間:約6分鐘

 

提醒事項

  • 傍晚下班時段,請注意馬路上的車流量。
  • 飲酒適可而止,注意自身安全。
  • 想要徹夜狂歡者,請勿酒駕,也請事先找好附近的住宿地點。
報導人:財務金融學系 四年級 劉育瑄
日期:2018,12,18

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