真實的台南好滋味

 

口碑行銷對在地小吃的衝擊

引言

曾在報章認識口碑行銷的運用,這類行銷策略被廣泛應用於中小企業,甚至地方小販,最著名的手段即是使用假帳號對產業或服務進行評價,並以大規模的帳號數量換取巨大的網路聲量,另外,近日的網路紅人業配也屬於其中的行銷手段之一。而正確的口碑行銷能為店家造就可觀的營業額,但過度的行銷手段卻導致總白痴化,閱聽人在混淆的情況下接收了廣告的渲染,進而藉由接收的訊息來定義商家的好壞。有鑑於此,我不禁思索在這資訊爆炸的年代,是否所有的地方小吃都誠如網路上所呈現的真實?而是否有不屈就於這氾濫的行銷時代,仍默默耕耘的好味道?身為在地的台南居民,我打算親自走訪顯少在廣告出現的店家,挖掘最真實的在地好滋味!

 

 

西門路無名擔仔麵

說到台南的擔仔麵,從腦海湧現的是無數不同的招牌,舉凡網路熱門搜尋上常出現的度小月、小公園等等,而正因為擔仔麵是當地不足為奇的食物,我想這更值得我去探究及發掘。

行前動機

親自走訪前,曾在網路上查詢關鍵字「擔仔麵」,搜尋結果誠如上述所言,度小月、小公園等店家即在網路上展現極高的聲量,而在我心中,其實早有暗自擬定的目標,這間位於西門路上的小店,或許在不經意中你曾擦身過無數次,卻未曾走訪,它鮮少出現在熱門美食推薦及部落客的評論專欄中,卻在台南的深夜有數不盡的來客數,以上因素也正呼應此行的目的,放下網路行銷的渲染,脫出華而不實的包裝,用心去體會在地小吃,也藉此理解口碑行銷對於地方小販的重要性與否,以及不同見解。

 

位於西門路的無名擔仔麵(圖片引用:https://goo.gl/TdceKA)

 

店內一隅(圖片引用:https://goo.gl/TdceKA)
最有人情味的用餐視角

坐在面對料理台的位置,點了幾份簡單的餐點,擔仔麵、滷肉飯、貢丸湯,再簡單不過的餐點,卻因為位置的設置有了不同的感受,以平視的角度,看著店家為客人準備的每一份餐點,近距離接觸鍋爐裡滾燙而出的蒸氣,這縮短了我對店家的距離感,且多了一份人情味。店家沒有現代氣息的裝潢,從簡的設置反映在牆上極為明瞭的菜單選項,以幾張竹片匯集而成的菜單,更抓住我的眼球。

正值選前黃金週,店內喧嚷著全是近期火紅的政治議題,國語及台語交雜而成的吵雜環境卻不讓我感到反感,而多了一份南部獨有的歸屬感,雖無心於關注國內政治,但我能漸漸融入大家的激昂情緒中,這也增添了用餐的趣味。

面對料理台的座位有著別緻的用餐感受(圖片攝自:林炅嶔)

 

 

竹片製成的菜單(圖片攝自:林炅嶔)
平淡卻有超越「好吃」兩字的體會

對我而言,這些餐點即是日常生活中再基本不過的小吃,對於口感的評價,我感受到的不是網路評價中用華麗辭藻形容出的特別口感,而是一份濃厚的家鄉味,身處在自己歸屬的城市,吃著地道的食物,平淡但卻有著超越「好吃」兩字的體會。

深入對談

在吃飯的過程中,進而和店內的員工大姐聊了起來,大姐是來自重慶的外配,居住於台灣前前後後加起來有20餘年的時間,而在麵店也工作了4年左右,大姐講話帶著家鄉的口音,手邊卻為客人料理著地道的台南味,這文化交融的景致,是我在對談中印象最為深刻的一部分。麵店傳自於老闆的老母親,是飄向近一甲子的好味道,對於自家餐點的堅持,能從老闆每天親力親為地付出一覽無遺,為了端出最自豪的好料理,老闆每天著墨最多的部分即是麵裡的精華,肉燥,想必在其他食材的準備上也都不馬虎,看似簡單的料理過程,也深藏著無數的用心及堅持,經營多年的生意似乎也不把利潤當作導向,而是為了堅持而做出這傳承已久的好料理。

 

店內的乾擔仔麵(圖片攝自:林炅嶔)
關於行銷及宣傳

無意瞄到牆上的泛黃的報導剪貼,仔細一看,是出刊於民國89年的中華日報,這也是我在該店家看到唯一的輔助宣傳的報導,究竟這飄香進一甲子的好味道,為什麼卻沒有在網路上受到高度聲量的推播呢?我最終將心中的困惑提出!

大姐回答道,我們是傳統的店家,老闆只對食材及做法有所堅持,至於廣告部分的著墨,我們不會特別去從事行銷,也不奢求被過度的包裝,畢竟餐點的好吃與否,並不全然由網路的聲量來斷定,此時我回頭張望了四周,熙來攘往的顧客似乎正應證著大姐口中的每一句話!「哪天老闆不願意繼續營業了,要我們經營下去,我們也不會做了!」這是當天最觸動我的一句話,店家的精神不僅止有對食材及工法堅持,還將老闆和員工的意志緊緊捆綁在一起,在此用餐確實讓我感受到超脫現今當紅餐廳的不平凡,接收到相對感性的溫度。

店內唯一的報導(圖片攝自:林炅嶔)
生活中缺少的絕對不是「好的事物」,而是我們對生活的感知能力

實際走訪店家後,我想我學到的不是推翻不實廣告的能力,而是內化明辨是非的心態,味覺是相對主觀的感受,相信不同的店家肯定有不一樣的擁護者喜愛,身處在一個資訊爆炸的時代,每天都將接收到最新資訊的衝擊,或許是某處是當紅的必訪景點,而或是某項餐點是當下最流行的的必吃美食,然而這些資訊的傳遞是否淪為盲從,則成了現今最值得關注的議題!即便生活在已習慣甚至成為乏味的台南,卻仍有許多我未曾實際探訪的景點,及親自品嚐的佳餚,生活中缺少的絕對不是「好的事物」,而是我們對生活的感知能力。如同今日走訪的商家,默默耕耘而不追求網路好評的聲量,堅持自身對於服務的價值,進而從中獲取滿足感,而這類優質的店家正等待著我們的發掘,它要求的不是我們的喜愛,更不追求我們將好評大範圍地分享,反之而是顧客對於其中價值的深入探究及品味,慢下腳步,放下對於廣告的偏見,相信很快就能找到心中對於「好」最真實的定義!

 

店內一隅(圖片引用:https://goo.gl/TdceKA)

 

 

 

【如何搭公車到西門路擔仔麵】

⟪7號公車⟫:西門路三段口站

⟪步行⟫:約一分鐘(約80公尺)

 

 

【小提醒】店內除了招牌擔仔麵必點除外,滷肉飯也務必嚐嚐!

【營業時間】PM1800-AM400

【營業地址】台南市中西區西門路2段379號

報導者:林炅嶔
報導日期:11/19

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